Kroatien 2013

Auf der Suche nach Sonne in Kroatien

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Endlich gibt es von uns wieder ein paar News! Unser erster Familienurlaub zu Dritt mit dem LKW steht an und wir machen uns nach den vielen Monaten im graukalten Deutschland auf in Richtung Süden.

Diesmal ist Kroatien unser Ziel.

Die Vorbereitungen waren wie immer hektisch und stressig und diesmal, vor allem für Marco, sehr zeitintensiv. Unser Kurzer stand 2 Jahre im Stadel und so war einiges zu tun…

Nun sitze ich in der warmen Junisonne am Meer. Glasklares, blau schimmerndes Wasser, ein laues Lüftchen und das zwitschern der Vögel…Urlaubsgefühl…Zebu hält gerade seinen wohlverdienten Mittagsschlaf. Den ganze Vormittag war er mit seiner neu gewonnen Freundin Romy fleißg am spielen. Marco ist gerade auf der Suche nach Grillfleisch. Scheinbar schwer zu bekommen, denn er musste per Anhalter ein paar Dörfchen abfahren um fündig zu werden.

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Aber nun mal der Reihe nach.

 Wie auf der Flucht vor Wind, Regen und winterlichen Temperaturen, packen wir mit Regenjacken und Gummistiefeln unser Reisemobil. Noch wissen wir nicht, dass 2 Tage später die Autobahn überflutet sein wird und Deggendorf wie ein Stausee daher kommt….

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Nach einer Nacht auf einer Rastanlage in Villach, mit netten Wohnwagen-Nachbarn aus Mühldorf inkl. zwei Jungs im fußbalspielenden Alter, (Danke! Zebu hat danach geschlafen wie ein Mumeltier), erreichen wir Slowenien. Ein Einkehrtipp lässt uns gut mittagspeisen und Zebu verausgabt sich auf dem riesigen Kinderspielplatz der Wirtschaft mit Kettcar und Riesenrutsche.


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Die Plitvicer Seen sind unser erstes großes Ziel. Leider lässt uns das Wetter noch etwas bangen, wollen wir doch nicht im Regen die Kulisse vom berühmten „ Schatz vom Silbersee“ erkunden. Aber siehe da, nach einer Nacht auf dem Campingplatz nahe dem Eingang Nr. 1 zum Nationalpark, kommt die Sonne aus der Wolkendecke hervor und lässt die Seen im schönsten grün leuchten. Da lacht das Fotografenherz. Zebu verschläft die Bootsfahrt und lässt sich ansonsten auf Schultern und Rücken über die Holzstege tragen.

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Nach weiteren Straßenkilometern, einem Anhalter, der eine halbe Stunde neben Zebu sitzen darf und einigen Stunden Fahrt immer der Sonne entgengen, sehen wir das kroatische Meer. Es glitzert und strahlt uns an, Zebu freut sich und will baden. Zwischendurch wollte unser Sohn lieber wieder heim, das lange Fahren hat ihm nicht so gut gefallen. Schon ist ihm der Urlaub wieder sympathischer. Urlaub+Kroatien+Meer=schön

Die niedrige Reisegeschwindigkeit von 90kmh tut uns gut und wir genießen das Gefühl nun 3 Wochen Zeit für uns drei zu haben. Unsere Familienzeit. Auch haben wir wieder Zeit zu reden. Pläne schmieden und in Erinnerungen schwelgen.

Zebulun macht tapfer mit und wir haben den Eindruck, dass er langsam eine Vorstellung von dem Wort „Urlaub“ bekommt.

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Beim ersten Abendessen in einem kleinen Grillrestaurant, gibt’s Kalamare vom Rost. Zebu hält nach dem Essen nix mehr auf seinem Stuhl und so besucht er den Koch in der Küche. Dieser ist genauso begeistert wie Zebu und die beiden verstehen sich auch ohne Worte. Mit beiden Händen voll Weißbrot, immer den Blick auf die Tür gerichtet, Mama könnte ja kommen und schimpfen, gibt es viel zu lachen. Wie immer gibt er den Clown. Von diesem, ihm sehr sympathischen Ort, will Zebu gar nicht mehr fort uns so müssen wir ihn fast schon gewaltsam zum Heim gehen zwingen.

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Unsere nächste Etappenziel heißt Trogir. Eine nette Altstadt in der wir uns ein Risotto zu Mittag schmecken lassen. Leider ist alles sehr touristisch und wir sind auf der Suche nach alternativen Plätzen voller Charme und Originalität.

Ein Reisetipp von Freunden lässt uns die Fähre auf die Insel Solta buchen. Eine noch ursprügliche kleine Insel, auf der sich Sylvia aus dem Schwabenländle vor 30 Jahren nieder gelassen hat. Die große Liebe zu einem Kroaten hat sie damals Deutschland verlassen lassen. Diese Liebe, gefunden auf einer Bootsreise, hält noch immer an und so lebt sie mit ihren Mann und den beiden Kindern zwischen Olivenbäumen und Weinreben. Auch ein paar Zimmer werden an Gäste vermietet. Wir dürfen aber im „Obstgarten“ stehen und sind dort völig autark. Wunderbar, inmitten der Landschaft. Zebu kann einfach los laufen und die Gegend entdecken.

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Wir erkunden die Insel per Pedes, per Anhalter und per Inselbus.

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Das Wasser ist klar und kühl, und mich hält nichts an Land, ich muss da rein! Auch Zebu wagt es. Wir haben ihm einen Kescher gekauft, mit dem er nun fleißig Fische fangen übt.

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Beim Dorfwirt sind wir die einzigen Gäste und damit sich der Koch heute Abend auch lohnt, bestellen wir das volle Programm: Oktopussalat, Käse und Oliven, einen Zwischenschnaps und zum Finale die Grillplatte für zwei Personen. Dazu bekommen wir wahnsinnig gutes Olivenöl mit frischem Brot gereicht. Der Vino schmeckt mir auch und Zebu isst wie immer alles und davon genug!

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Nach 3 Tagen ist es soweit, wir sollten langsam wieder an einen Campingplatz fahren um das Auto zu entleeren, bzw. wieder aufzufüllen.

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Nach einem redseligen gemeinsamen Abend bei Kerzenschein vor unserem LKW ist der Abschied von Sylvia sehr herzlich und wir freuen uns heute schon wenn wir mal beim Olivenernten im November helfen können!

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Zurück geht’s nach Split und dann an der Küste entlang bis kurz vor Makarska. Traumhafte Buchten und Strände, eine steile Küstenlandschaft, Berge, wolkenverhangen und im Kontrast Palmen und der leichte Duft von Sonnencreme wenn man durch die Örtchen tingelt. Leider finden wir keinen Campingplatz direkt am Wasser. Wir sind zu groß oder die Strassen zu eng…Trotzdem sind wir am Ende des Tages zufrieden mit unserem Standplatz und freuen uns über die vielen nette Nachbarn: Romy, 2,5 Jahre alt, blond gelockt versteht sich auf Anhieb mit Zebulun. Er hält ständig ihre Hand und führt sie wohin sie es ihm befielt.Wie Milch und Schokolade sitzen sie harmonisch zusammen und auch ein Küsschen gibt es zwischendurch. Wirklich süß!

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Auch lernen wir Andy und Gaby aus der Schweiz kennen. Marco ist kaum mehr zu sehen, so gut verstehen sich die Männer. Reisen und Autos, das besondere Lebensgefühl, und dazu ein Bier, was braucht MANN mehr? Und ich lerne das tunesische Häkeln von einer netten Angelika.

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Unsere Freunde Marion und Daniel haben sich angekündigt. Ein stürmisches aufeinander Treffen, denn die Bora war plötzlich zugegen, mit allerlei „Schiwelli“ mit Nussschnaps und dem restlichen Wein von Sylvia, dazu Grillfleisch und Cevapcici war es erträglich. Trotzdem muss ich sagen, dass ich schon lange nicht mehr so eine stürmische Nacht erlebt habe…

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Wir tingeln weiter in Richtung Süden, wieder die Küstenstrasse entlang. An der Grenze zu Bosnien, ein winziger Abschnitt an der Küste gehört nicht den Kroaten, werden wir streng beäugt, wenigstens gibt es einen Länderpunkt! Nach wenigen Km reisen wir aber schon wieder nach Kroatien ein, und erreichen bald, die für ihren Wein bekannte Halbinsel Peljesac.

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Das auserwählte Camp liegt am Hang und sieht auf den ersten Blick nicht sehr einladend aus, entpuppt sich dann aber als Geheimtipp. Eine wunderschöne Badebucht, ideal für Kinder, denn der feine Kies verläuft sehr flach ins Meer, eine nette Strandbar mit herrlicher Kulisse und Blick auf die Insel Korcula. Dazu eine Tauchbasis für Daniel und Marion, die sich sogleich für 2 Tauchgänge anmelden.

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Zebu markiert sofort sein Revier und wir brauchen eine „Hundetüte“ in der Badebucht…na bravo, gesehen hat es Gott sei Dank niemand…

Als wir Zebu nach dem Frühstück fragen was er heute machen will, kommen folgende Worte in dieser Reihenfolge: „Frühstück, Essen, Schokolade, Essen, Schlafen“. Aha, dann wäre der Tagesablauf also geklärt.

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Beim Abendessen im Restaurant neben unserem Stellplatz, genießen wir mit unseren Freunden Fischplatte und Kalamare vom Grill. Als es Zebu wieder im Popo juckt und er nicht mehr länger sitzen kann, besucht er die Schildkröten, die an der Terasse wohnen. Das wird scheinbar schnell zu langweilig, oder es war nur ein Vorwand, denn er erinnert sich scheinbar an den „Küchenausflug“ vom letzten Mal. Ich sehe nämlich Zebu plötzlich in Richtung Küche verschwinden. Bevor ich reagieren kann, höre ich schon das Rumpsen der Schwingtüre und gleich darauf lautes Geschrei. Ohje, jetzt hat unser Sohn eine Beule. Schnell rüber zu unserem Wohnmobil und Erste Hilfe leisten! Mit Kühlakkus aus unserem LKW und mit Arnica gedopet, kehren wir ein paar Minuten später zurück an unseren Tisch. Zebu ist noch etwas datterig und winselt vor sich hin, als die Dame des Hauses mit einem riesigen Eisbecher für den Patienten erscheint. Schon lacht die Sonne wieder und der Abend ist gerettet. Der gekühlte Eislöffel wird zwischendurch auf die Stirn gelegt und am nächsten Morgen sieht man nur noch wenig vom Unfall mit der Küchenschwingtür.

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Wir haben nun noch eine gute Woche. Wo soll es nun hin gehen? Unser Gefühl sagt uns, dass Zebu die Stadt Dubrovnik nicht wirklich interessieren wird und somit verschieben wir den Stadbummel auf eine weitere Kroatienreise in ferner Zukunft. So verabschieden wir uns von Daniel und Marion und machen uns auf, vom südlichsten Punkt unserer Reise ,wieder in Richtug Norden.

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Die Überfahrt von Orebic nach Korcula dauert nur eine knappe halbe Stunde, das Städtchen mit der Stadtmauer macht vom Wasser aus schon einen netten Eindruck. Wir suchen einen ebenso netten Campingplatz, werden aber erst ganz am anderen Ende der Insel fündig. Im Ort Vela Luka steht unser LKW nun unter den Olivenbäumen, wildromantisch und einfach schön. Wir platzieren unseren Tisch unter den ausladenden Baum und machen Brotzeit mit Tomatensalat, Oliven und frischem Weißbrot, dazu ein Glaserl kühlen Weißwein. Urlaub ist schon schön! Zebu geht es auch gut, inzwischen gefällt im Urlaub so richtig gut, der LKW ist sein Zuhause und er kommt gut, mit unserem inzwischen eingependelten, Reiserythmus zurecht. Auch findet er wie immer sehr schnell Freunde, diesmal ist es eine 2,5 Jahre alte Holländerin. Isa, heißt sie, natürlich blond.

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Zum Strand läuft man mit Kind 20 Minuten. Einsame, wilde Abschnitte laden zum Baden ein. Aber auch die Dorfbewohner treffen sich hier.

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Am Abend melden wir uns beim hiesigen Dorfwirt. Eine äußerst liebevoll mit Naturstein und hellblauen Fenstern hergerichtete Gartenlaube mit offenem Grill, rosa-weiß karierte Tischdecken und einem singenden Wirt, machen das Ambiente unvergesslich. Dazu noch köstliche, einfache Hausmannskost und ein Glaserl Wein. Da würden wir gerne noch öfter essen!

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Um 5 Uhr am frühen Morgen klingelt der Wecker, denn wir wollen um 6 Uhr, gemütlich mit der Fähre in 3 Stunden nach Split zurück fahren. Das erspart und einige Küstenkilometer und Fahrstunden in der sommerlichen Hitze. Wir „unterstützen“ die kroatische Fährgesellschaft mit einem kleinen Vermögen und rollen auf das Boot.

Von Split bis zur Insel Murter ist es nicht allzu weit. Schnell noch einkaufen für einen schönen Grillabend und dann rein ins Camp. Die ganze Bucht ist ein einziger Campingplatz und im hinteren Bereich sind die sogenannten „Selbstversorger“ ohne Strom und Wasser. Da finden wir auch prompt eine Platz direkt am Wasser. Juhuu! Hier wollen wir noch 2 Nächte bleiben bevor wir langsam wieder in Richtung Heimat aufbrechen.

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Eine schöne Reise geht zu Ende…Zebu ist eindeutig „reisetauglich“ und wir freuen uns schon jetzt auf den nächsten Urlaub!

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